BY JANET STEINBERG
BEWARE! FADO FEVER IS CATCHING.
Fado is the national song of
Portugal. This melancholy singing expression of the state of the
soul (from the Latin word fatum) signifies prophecy or fate…a life
commended by the oracle…one that nothing can change. Wherever you may travel in
Portugal, you will be mesmerized by the dialogue of emotions between a round
Portuguese guitar and a sad voice singing fado.
Come along with me as we tour
Portugal, the country that borders the
Atlantic Ocean on the west, Spain on the east, is one of the warmest countries
in Europe, and is the country some predict will be one of the top
travel destinations of 2019.
LISBON: Bom dia (good day) is
the friendly welcome you’ll receive as you arrive in Lisbon (Lisboa),
the scenic capital city located on the banks of the Tagus River. It
has long been argued whether the Tagus River, a winding silver ribbon that
mirrors the city, ebbs up to meet the city or whether Lisbon extends down to
meet the river. Whatever the case, the seven hills of Lisbon and the
wide mouth of the Tagus form a perfect picture postcard that is illuminated by
the extraordinary amount of light that is reflected off the massive expanse of
the river. Little wonder that the Tagus River is said to be a large
natural mirror that amplifies the aurora of the sun.
The Torre de Belem (Belem
Tower), built in the year 1521, looks like a miniature castle on the banks of
the Tagus River. It was granted World Heritage status by UNESCO in 1983, and is one of the most popular attractions in
Lisbon.
BELEM TOWER ON THE BANKS OF THE TAGUS RIVER |
The Padrao dos Descobrimentos (Monument
to Prince Henry the Navigator) is on the
northern bank of the Tagus
River. The monument calls forth the age of great discoveries. Thirty-four
statues render images of important personalities who, one way or another, have
contributed to Portugal’s reputation in the age of discovery. The main figure
represents Henry the Navigator.
PRINCE HENRY THE NAVIGATOR MONUMENT |
Other attractions include the Sao Jorge Castle, with its panoramic views of the city; Edward VII Park; Pracia di Comerce ("Black Horse Square"); the Cathedral, with its Arab mosque design; the Chiado area's outdoor elevator designed by Gustave Eiffel of Eiffel Tower fame.
VIEW FROM EDUARDO Vll PARK |
Lisbon is known for its hearty,
reasonably priced Portuguese cuisine. Fresh seafood is a staple of
the Portuguese diet. Regional specialties include: grilled sardines,
seafood stew called caldeirada, and a hearty soup of spicy sausage
and potatoes known as caldo verde. Following any dinner in Lisbon
is the time to experience a melancholy fado performance.
SINTRA: When you are in Lisbon, save a day
to get out of town. Head for Sintra, the picturesque town where
Portuguese royalty spent their summers. The majestic and romantic
Pena Palace, situated on a high mountain peak is an eclectic mixture of styles
that exemplifies the 19th
century Romanticism style of architecture. Vividly painted terraces,
decorative battlements and mythological statues are in stark contrast to the
lush greens of the forests that encircle Pena.
THE MAJESTIC PENA PALACE |
Have a typical Portuguese lunch at
Restaurante Regional De Sintra or at the Seteais Palace, a deluxe five-star
hotel where the walls of the public rooms are hand-painted with motifs of the
18th century. While in Sintra, don’t miss tasting the deliciously
well-known tarts called "Queijadas.”
Return to Lisbon along a road that
borders the Tagus River. The scenic route affords a peek at the
former fishing port of Cascais and the turn-of-the-century luxury resort of
Estoril with its renowned casino.
MADEIRA: The sub-tropical island of Madeira
is part of the Portuguese archipelago that hugs the North Atlantic Ocean 400
miles west of North Africa. This flower-filled island of volcanic origin
is a magical meld of Europe and the tropics. With the waters of the Gulf Stream
lapping at its shores, Madeira is blessed with a near perfect year-round
climate of comfortable summers and mild winters.
The island’s lush, irregularly cut
mountains scrape across the sky, while the bays, the beaches, and the cliffs
meet the deep blue crystalline sea. The beauty of nature is harmoniously
contrasted with the cosmopolitan throb of Funchal, the capital of
Madeira. The amphitheater-like city, which rises from the harbor,
was named Funchal from the abundance of fennel (funcho) that used
to grow there.
No stay in Madeira would be complete
without going up to Monte, either by taxi (or preferably) by cable
car. In Monte, you will find the Monte Palace Tropical Garden and
the famous wicker toboggans, a popular tourist attraction.
WICKER TOBOGGAN RIDE FROM THE MONTE |
The Monte toboggan is a wicker basket
assembled on an iron frame with wooden runners. It carries two
passengers and is controlled by ropes and manpower. Two men,
traditionally decked out in white cotton clothes and Madeira-emblazoned straw
hats, and using their rubber-soled boots as brakes, pull and push the toboggan
down the winding, narrow streets at speeds of up to 30 miles per hour. This
19th-century style of transportation from Monte to Funchal is quite
a contrast to the 21st-century cable car that zips you from Funchal
up to Monte.
If time permits, you must get out of
Funchal for a day. Twenty-five miles north of Funchal is Santana,
the village famous for its A-framed, thatched-roofed, cottages called palheiros. Stop
for lunch at Quinta do Furao Restaurant and then head on to Parque
Tematico da Madeira.
STRAW HAT SCULPTURE OF MADEIRA’S ICONIC STRAW HAT IN TEMATICO PARK |
Opened in
October 2004, Parque Tematico da Madeira (Tematico Park) is
called a Theme Park, but in no way does it resemble a Disney Park. With no
amusement rides, this park depicts the history, culture, and traditions of the
people of Madeira in pavilions and open-air spaces.
With its glorious climate, friendly
people, low crime rate, rugged landscape, and abundant vegetation, the scenic
island of Madeira is fast becoming one of the most popular destinations in
Europe.
OPORTO: Portugal's second -largest city, located along the Douro River estuary in Northern Portugal, is one of the
oldest European
Centers. Its historical core was
proclaimed a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in
1996.
Driving along the Avenida dos
Aliados, enroute to the Duoro River, you will view some of the city's most
impressive buildings such as the 1915 train station, the 18th century Church of
Clerigos, and the austere Se Cathedral, a 12th-century
Romanesque building.
Head down to the Ribeira quarter to
enjoy a boat ride on the Douro River (River of Gold). The water affords a
totally different panorama of Oporto’s skyline.
On the opposite bank from where you
board the boat, you can visit Vila Nova de Gaia, home to the port
trade and numerous wine lodges. Most of them were established in the 18th
century; their brand-name port wines are known worldwide.
Duoro river cruises culminate with
a visit to a winery with an "OPORTOnity" to learn the process
of wine making, and to have a tasting of their fine Port wines.
JANET STEINBERG resides in Cincinnati but
call the world home. She is the winner of 47 national Travel Writing
Awards.
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